Cultivation techniques of high-quality dried pepper

1. Seedling cultivation

Most farmers buy pepper seedlings, which need to be transplanted, cultivated into adult seedlings, and planted on the ground.

1. Arch shed construction: Choose a place where the wind is facing the sun and is convenient for irrigation and drainage. Build a north-south arch shed or an east-west slope shed. It is better to use a north-south arch shed with a "three-tile" shed film. The height of the shed is 1.5-2 meters, the width is 4-8 meters, and the length depends on the area. Generally, the transplant shed is about 300 square meters per hectare. At the end of March and the beginning of April, the temperature of the shed was increased.

2. Bed soil treatment: Choose fertile and seedless field topsoil, and avoid using field soil with sorghum, millet, sugar beet and solanaceous crops. Depending on the soil fertility, add an appropriate amount of fully decomposed organic fertilizer, generally about 100 kilograms per cubic meter of soil, and 500 grams of "all-element vegetable seedling strengthening agent". The soil and fertilizer are evenly mixed and sieved and spread on the seedbed with a thickness of 10 mm. After being slightly stepped on, they are flattened.

3. Transplantation method: The transplantation time is generally from April 15th to 20th, depending on the weather conditions and the insulation conditions of the shed. The transplant density is preferably 7×7 cm, if the shed area is insufficient, at least not less than 5×5 cm. There are two transplanting methods: 1) Water the seedlings thoroughly before transplanting, and plant the seedlings according to the line spacing, and then re-water * water after planting; 2) Dry soil markings to plant the seedlings, after planting, irrigate and irrigate. through.

4. Transplant management: Try to keep warm and moisturize before slowing the seedling. The shed temperature does not exceed 30 ℃ and no air is required. When the temperature is too high, use shade to cool down. After slow seedling, it is about 25℃ during the day and 15℃ at night. Generally do not water before the slow seedling, and water in the morning on a sunny day when there is water shortage after the slow seedling. After slowing the seedlings, spray 2 to 3 times of foliar fertilizer according to the fertility of the bed soil and the growth of the pepper seedlings, with an interval of about 5-7 days. Water thoroughly 10 days before planting, and gradually increase the amount of ventilation, to remove the shed film 3-4 days before planting, and exercise the seedlings.

Second, choose the place

It is necessary to choose flat terrain, high fertility, and better water conditions to grow peppers. Try to avoid repeated cropping, alternate cropping, and sorghum, sugar beet, millet and other solanaceous crops as the first crop. Do not choose low-lying and flood-prone areas for pepper fields.

Three, land preparation and film

Planting pepper plots* are plowed, and those that cannot be plowed must be cleaned. There are two methods of soil preparation. After applying the base fertilizer in general sandy soil, make small high borders with a border width of 90 cm, a trench width of 30 cm between borders, a mulching film with a width of 90-100 cm, and planting "Baizi" seedlings on both sides of the border; "Three plows through" ridges are carried out along the black land plots along the river, the ridge width is 60-65 cm, the single ridge covering width is 60 cm, or the double ridge covering width is 120 cm, and seedlings are planted on the ridge. Before covering the film, be sure to pour the bottom water thoroughly. After the feet are not sticking, cover the film immediately to moisturize and keep warm. Before mulching, use herbicide 48% pull cable, 3,000 ml per hectare, 750 kg of water, spray on the ridge surface, and cover immediately after spraying. The mulching should be carried out 7-10 days before transplanting. The ridge (border) surface should be flattened before the mulching, and the mulching must be tightly pressed.

Four, reasonable fertilization

Jinta pepper should be based on increasing agricultural fertilizers, supplemented with compound chemical fertilizers. The soil in the Jinta pepper production area is basically chernozem, impact soil and light chernozem. Calculate the nutrient content of the above-grade fertility in each type of soil, and the fertilizer application amount is shown in the table below.

The amount of fertilizer used for producing 5,000 kilograms of pepper per hectare

Unit: Ton

Fertilizer soil application rate, sheep pen manure, chicken manure, cow pen manure, horse pen manure, pig pen manure

Chernozem 3030704055

Impact soil 2525654055

Light chernozem 3535804560

Apply the full amount of agricultural fertilizer to the pepper plots, and supplement 500 kg of compound fertilizer (containing N15%, P2O515%, K2O15%) per hectare, 200 kg of urea as base fertilizer, or supplement of 300 kg of urea, 150 kg of diammonium, and 150 potassium sulfate Kg as base fertilizer. During the entire growth period of pepper, secondary nitrogen fertilizer is required. * From June 15th to 20th, during the flowering period of pepper, topdressing urea is 200 kg per hectare; for the second time in mid-July, when the pepper is in full bloom, topdressing urea is 150 kg per hectare.

Five, timely colonization

1. Planting time: Planting can be done after the final frost. The normal year can be around May 20 and end before May 25.

2. Planting density: depending on the soil fertility and fertilization level, 55,000 to 60,000 seedlings are protected per hectare. Calculated according to 60 cm ridge spacing, the plant spacing is 28-30 cm.

3. Planting method: Use a 6-8 cm diameter punch or wooden pole to dazzle the eyes, with a depth of 8-10 cm. Throw seedlings, and after watering them, seal the ridges with soil.

4. Planting irrigation: water the slow seedlings thoroughly. After planting a certain area, you must irrigate * permeable water. For double ridge mulching, water under the film should be used. The method is: at one end of the ditch under the mulch, lift the mulch, use No. 8 iron wire or soft branches to prop up the irrigation, and then tighten the water inlet after irrigation.

Six, field management

1. Scientific irrigation: Peppers are afraid of floods and droughts. The principle of "three look" (seeing the sky, the ground, and the seedlings) should be followed, and small water should be irrigated frequently to avoid accumulation of water in the field. During the rainy season from July to August, attention should be paid to waterlogging prevention and timely drainage.

2. Prevention and control of diseases, insects and weeds: 1) Disease prevention and control: As a result, umbilical rot is prone to occur in high temperature and drought at the initial stage. Water should be irrigated to cool down, and foliar calcium fertilizer should be sprayed. 70% thiophanate methyl and 50% multi-bacteria can be sprayed before the onset. Ling 500 times liquid prevents secondary infections. During the hot and humid seasons from July to August, anthracnose is prone to occur. At the beginning of the disease, you can spray 65% ​​mancozeb 500 times liquid and 58% mancozeb 600 times liquid; In the event of continuous rain or sudden rain, scabs are prone to occur, and DT fungicide, keratide, agricultural streptomycin, medical penicillin, etc. should be sprayed before or at the beginning of the onset for prevention and treatment; the temperature difference between day and night is large before and after the beginning of autumn. , The leaf surface is dew, prone to bacterial leaf spot, the prevention method is the same as scab. 2) Pest control: mainly control aphids. If aphids are found to be controlled as soon as possible, use imidacloprid plus cypermethrin and use acaricides alternately. 3) Weed control: Pull out seedling eyes and weeds between ridges in time to reduce the loss of fertilizer and water.

3. Strike the branches and pinch the tips: After planting the slow seedlings, the side branches below the door pepper should be knocked off in time, so that the buds are not too small. Starting from August 10th, the top of the flower buds from the top of the pepper branch will promote the ripening of the lower fruit.

4. Pole railing: In a plot with vigorous growth, in order to prevent the late pepper seedlings from falling down, a thick wooden stick is inserted on the ridge every 5-8 meters, and two thinner nylon ropes are connected to the wooden stick on both sides of the pepper. Tighten the top, and sandwich the pepper seedlings between the two ropes. A small area of ​​pepper field can be supported by wooden sticks and branches.

7. Harvesting and drying

After ripening, they can be harvested and dried in batches. The specific method is: choose red ripe fruit to pick and hang it in a shaded and ventilated place for about 3 days. After the pepper fruit has wilted and become soft, it can be dried in a direct light environment. *Put it on plastic In the large shed, the shed is closed during the day to increase the temperature, and the air is released at night to remove humidity. Three to four days before the frost (about September 15), the roots will be uprooted and laid, and the roots will face one direction when laid. Turn it up and down every 3-5 days*, and after drying in the field for 15-20 days, pull it back into the stack. The piles of peppers should be located in a high and sunny place. The bottom of the piles should be padded with thick wooden poles or sunflower poles. The piles are stacked in a single row from north to south. The height of the stacks is about 1.5 meters, with a gap of 0.5 meters between them, every 8-10 The sky is turning*. Do not squeeze or trample when turning it in the sun, let alone turning it with a steel fork, so as not to damage the pepper fruit and cause mildew. When it is dried until the roots of the pepper fruit are twisted by hand and do not slide, the water required for the purchase is reached. The pepper fruit can be picked from the seedlings and bagged for sale.

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